A glass of white wine, pale yellow. Floral aromas, with citrus and stone fruit notes. On the palate, it is a light wine with very good acidity, almost imperceptible sweetness and very well balanced. A description that, depending on where you are on the planet, could be associated with either a Torrontés or a dry Riesling.
Both wines come from very different wine cultures, yet they also have many qualities in common. Torrontés is the emblematic grape of Argentina, while Riesling is the emblematic grape of Germany.
Both grape varieties are cultivated in very different climatic conditions, even their genetic origins are very different. Nevertheless, they share not only the symbolic value of representing a country, but also a number of organoleptic characteristics.
But to get to know them better, let’s first talk about their differences:
As for the origins and ancestors of each one, i.e. the Pedrigree, we can say that one of the most proven theories is that Riesling genetically comes from Gouais Blanc (one of the oldest and most prolific grapes in Western Europe). But as Gouais Blanc is genetically related to almost eighty other grape varieties (among them Chardonnay or Gamay Noir), it would not be a lie to say that Riesling is a “half-sister” of many other grape varieties.
Its mention in history, moreover, is much earlier than that of Torrontés.
Origins:
As for Torrontés, it is a grape that owes much of its development to the Jesuits who, from the 17th century onwards, inhabited Argentinean soil. They made wines with this grape, and they recognised a special particularity in it.
Although its name is Torrontés, it is not genetically related to the well-known Spanish Torrontés. This classification is rather a product of the need of historians and agronomists of the time to name this new grape with something already known. For many years, its vines grew silently alongside other grape varieties, until around 1850 it began to distinguish itself as a different grape variety. Its pedigree indicates that it comes from a genetic crossbreeding between a “criolla chica” grape variety (or Listan Prieto) and the Italian Moscatel de Alexandria grape.
Ripening and climates:
The type of ripening of these grapes is also different, which partly explains why each is adapted to such diverse climatic conditions.
Torrontés is an early ripening grape, which offers its best in dry climates, with a lot of sun, marked thermal amplitude, and altitudes that can reach up to 2400 metres above sea level. The best expression of Torrontés is found in the Cafayate valley, in Salta, in the northwest region of Argentina, with the highest altitude vineyards in the country.
Riesling, on the other hand, is a medium to late ripening grape variety. Most vineyards in Germany grow in a cool continental climate, with the exception of vineyards such as those in the southern Baden region, which are much warmer. Marked by humid summers, the great climatic variation in most regions of Germany generates differences in the quality and quantity of the wines produced each year. Since Riesling expresses very well the terroir where it grows, it can be difficult to generalise about its character and aroma.
Cultivated area:
Also the quantities cultivated make a difference. While in Argentina today there are almost 10,000 hectares planted with Torrontés (only a little more than 5% of the country’s cultivated area), in Germany there are more than 24,000 hectares planted with Riesling, and Germany produces 40% of the world’s Riesling.
In the case of Torrontés, and leaving aside the differences in planted areas, what we can be sure of is that Argentina is the only country responsible for producing this grape: being an autochthonous grape variety of this country, we cannot find it in any other part of the world. There are three varieties of Torrontés (Torrontés Sanjuanino, Torrontés Mendocino and Torrontés Riojano). It is from the Torrontés Riojano that the best quality wines are produced, and the most recognized in the local Argentinean market, as well as in the international market.
Ageing potential:
In terms of ageing potential, there are some Argentinean Torrontés wines on the market that have been aged in oak barrels, and this gives them a somewhat higher ageing potential than the vast majority of wines made without barrel ageing. However, this does not compare with the enormous ageing potential of the Riesling grape, which is capable of producing wines, both sweet and dry, that can be enjoyed many years after their harvest.
Coincidences just over 11,000 km distance.
Identity:
As we have already said, the first thing both wines share is to represent a country. Both Riesling for the Germans and Torrontés for the Argentinians, are those wines that we want to give to taste to those who visit us; hoping that this person will be delighted with our invitation. And most of the time, whoever comes from a distant land to try a Riesling or a Torrontés, quickly becomes a lover of these wines.
Dry wines and sweet wines:
Both vines, Torrontés and Riesling, are susceptible to mould and Botrytis, although Riesling is less so than Torrontés.
The other interesting coincidence is that both grapes are also capable of producing sweet versions of themselves. We will not delve here into the importance of the classification of German wines with respect to residual sugar, but certainly wines with all levels of sweetness can be made from the Riesling grape, and all equally wonderful.
In the case of Torrontés, its “late harvest” versions are ideal wines to accompany desserts, or to drink as an aperitif.
Season and serving temperature:
Both wines also share the suggestion on serving temperature, which ranges from 9°C to 12°C, and which makes them especially enjoyable in the spring-summer season.
Single varietals and blends:
Although there are interesting blends with both grapes, and although this is only a subjective opinion, both Riesling and Torrontés are more enjoyable in single-varietal wines; that is, wines made from the same grape variety. As we have already said, this is due to the fact that both grape varieties express themselves very differently according to the terroir where they develop. Thus, the market of Riesling white wines and Torrontés white wines is inexhaustible.
Aromas:
Torrontés can sometimes have aromas of stone fruit, pear, melon and Muscat. Likewise, and depending on the region it comes from, a Riesling could also contain several of these descriptors.
If we think for example of the Riesling wines of the Kabinett classification, we can say that the dry ones have light body, high acidity, and in the mouth they can taste both green apple and citrus.
If we talk about the Spätlese classification, on the other hand, these are sweeter wines, with more body, more citrus, and notes of stone fruit such as apricot and peach. In the same way, many of these descriptors could also speak of a Torrontés.
In short, there are particular aromatic descriptors for both Torrontés and Riesling. But it is also valid to say that both varieties share several organoleptic characteristics, such as an aromatic range from floral to citrus.
After the plane, wine is the best way to travel far, to know the identity of a country and to discover how close we can be to a culture; even when we think only of our differences. Riesling or Torrontés. Torrontés or Riesling. No matter what we choose, no matter how close or far we are from our homeland. There will always be a wine to accompany each of our moments.
Gabriela Malagraba / @mividaenvinos
